Here's to Great Burgers and Fries, down with the rest!

Monday, March 8, 2010

Home of the Char Broiled Cheddar Burger.....Weiner Circle

A sign on north Clark street emblazoned with the iconic yellow Vienna Hot Dog logo, proclaims for all to see "Home of the Char Broiled Cheddar Burger". This sight acts as a beacon for all, drawing us to The Weiner Circle. For many it's the last stop of an alcohol fueled night out, providing both tasty sustenance and an almost magical restorative power, and the entertainment is free most of the time. At other times it is the quintessential Chicago Hot Dog Joint, a place to chow down on some good food fast. I've been coming here so long; I remember the Hot Dog joint that failed at this same location before the Weiner Circle crew set up shop.

I always have had a great affinity for this place having logged many meals here at all times of the day and night. At one point in my life, stopping at the Weiner Circle and picking up a Cheddar Burger, Hot Dog, and Fries to take home, was a Gastronomic treat of the highest rank.

As I arrive at the stand alone building that Weiner Circle has occupied for many years with its own parking lot, both a big plus and rarity in the city. It is relatively quiet when I arrive, free of the usual side shows, just a few other patrons. As I approach the large elevated order window, I am greeted by the standard "What you want?"

Cheddar Burger medium rare with everything, raw onion, no tomato, pickles and peppers on the side, an order I've repeated many times in my hungry life.

As I wait in anticipation, I am informed my burger is done and what do I want on it. I repeat my earlier order, Cheddar Burger with everything, raw onion, no tomato, pickles and peppers on the side. Dressed and placed in wrap paper then in a paper basket.


Timing is everything; the saying goes, except at Weiner Circle. Why is it so difficult to get a simple two item order at the same time? I'll tell you why, because the employees preparing this simple order, just don't give a shit. Apparently cooking your food interferer’s with their text messaging and constant stream of meaningless conversation with each other.

At last it is announced, as a major feat has just been executed, "Your fries are ready," and a copious amount of fries it is. I once again go to the service window to retrieve the goodness of Golden French Fries. I'm almost happy.

First bite, juicy, but not quite as juicy as I would like, or remember. The cheese flavor is definitely there, accented by the other condiments. This Burger is a taste package, a shining example where the whole is definitely more than the sum of its parts. But... the big blast of burger flavor is a little bit less than I was expecting. A quick eye level check of the Burger reveals a pink center, medium rare- check. But I sense something is missing, I flip the lid for a closer examination, all condiments seem to be in the correct place, then it strikes me; this burger appears to be smaller than the ones of my fond and sometimes foggy memory.

I swing around on my chair to view the posted menu and notice the proud 1/3 pound declaration prevalently displayed in the past is missing. So are the great burgers of the past, but this one is still a tasty treat, just not great.


Digging into the heaping order of fries I'm reminded of a deep flavored fresh cut French Fry. Nice crisp outside and creamy potato inside. Pretty good, but something’s missing. Not a lot of depth of earthy potato flavor. I'm enjoying them, and I happily eat every last fry. But I feel a little disappointed and a tad perplexed.

A quick query to the young man working the fry station reveals the truth about a rumor I heard years ago. He confirms these fries are fresh not frozen, but come in a bag from an outside purveyor. Mystery solved! The fries like the burger are also good, if not very good at times, just not great.



The Damage:

Char Cheddar Burger $ 4.75

French Fries               $2.15

Ratings: ( out of 4****)

Burger 2**  Fries 2**

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